Msgr. Paul V. Garrity
This year, more than 500,000 people are expected to visit the Cathedral of St. James in northwestern Spain in the town of Santiago de Compestela. Most of these visitors will arrive on foot, completing a pilgrimage that has roots in the 10th century. I recently became one of these pilgrims when I completed a journey, over six days, on foot from Sarria to Santiago de Compestela. This 70-mile trek earned me a Latin diploma, issued by the cathedral, testifying to the completion of my pilgrimage. At the age of 77, having survived a quintuple bypass, prostate cancer, and a knee replacement, I thoroughly enjoyed receiving my diploma, though not some of the challenging days on the road.
The pilgrimage is called the Camino de Santiago, or the Way of St. James. The massive St. James Cathedral, a Romanesque and Gothic masterpiece, is the resting place of the Apostle St. James. His remains are interred in the cathedral according to a 9th-century tradition. The cathedral itself is a work of art that blends Gothic, Romanesque, and Baroque architecture into a mammoth structure that overlooks and defines the town of Santiago de Compestela. Most impressive is the cathedral’s portico, which is filled with artistic works that move from Adam and Eve to the Resurrection of Jesus. Equally impressive, but very disturbing, is the history of the medieval church, when bishops lived in splendor and had armies, and poor people were invisible.
From the 10th century until the present, pilgrims have journeyed from all parts of the globe to walk the Way of St. James. Spanish royalty, nobility, and people of all strata of life have made a pilgrimage to this beautiful Spanish town with all kinds of intentions. The very sick would often come in search of a miracle and go home cured. Many more would receive a healing to eternal life. Upon their arrival, they would receive the hospitality of Santiago in the forerunners of our modern hospitals. Many other pilgrims would make the long journey as an act of penance, a soul-searching interval in their lives, or simply to grow in their faith by reflecting on the beauty of the countryside. Along the way, pilgrims meet other pilgrims and forge bonds that would not be possible in any other way.
During his 1993 visit to Santiago, Pope John Paul Il brought worldwide attention to the St. James Camino, which began an annual increase in pilgrims from less than 1,000 annually to the more than half-million expected in 2024. The Spanish government’s promotion of the Camino since then has become so successful that discussions are said to be underway to curtail the exponential rise in visitors. The 2010 film “The Way,” starring Martin Sheen, also helped to highlight the significance of the Camino and is an excellent tutorial on what to expect.
Marly Camino is one of several excellent travel companies that take the fear out of doing the Camino unassisted. I was fortunate to travel with them, accompanied by a close friend, 10 other pilgrims, and a multilingual guide with an encyclopedic command of everything Camino. Over the course of nine days, we forged incredible relationships that are at the heart of the Camino. From all walks of life, four different countries, and a generous mixture of ages, we enjoyed each other and supported one another throughout our arduous journey.
For me personally, it was a respite from the divisiveness of daily news and an opportunity to gain a new perspective on life. Along the way, everyone is encouraged to wish other pilgrims Buen Camino, a good walk. Pilgrims are all encouraged to “walk your own Camino.” This simple recommendation became for me a reminder that we all need to live our own lives, to be ourselves, to be authentic. It is a metaphor for life, to accept the fact that many people are stronger, walk faster, and seem so much better. The Camino walk is well marked but has long stretches of high hills and rocky terrain. Rain, which is a common occurrence in the province of Galicia, is not an excuse to stop. It also produces deep mud and slippery slopes. In short, the Camino de Santiago is not for sissies.
The metaphor that is the Camino walk reminds everyone that humanity is one. Everyone is part of one human race without qualification. Everyone deserves a Buen Camino. It also tells us that life is filled with mountaintops and valleys, with the messiness of mud and the glory of sunshine. Life is not a contest for us to measure ourselves against one another but a spiritual journey on which we need to support one another in whatever ways we can.
Msgr. Paul V. Garrity is a senior priest of the Archdiocese of Boston and a former pastor of St. Mary’s Parish and St. Mary’s High School.